Let’s talk aging. What’s the first skincare ingredient that pops into your mind? Perhaps that retinoid, retinol, retinoic acid thing? But you still have no idea how they actually work or what the differences between them are, you say? They can be a little overwhelming, but figure ‘em out and they’ll work wonders on your skin. So let’s give them a proper introduction now, shall we? What are retinoids? Retinoids is an umbrella term for a class of ingredients that are related to vitamin A. It’s comprised of both skincare products you can get through a doctor’s prescription and those you can get over the counter just off the store shelf. Prescription-based retinoids are more commonly known as the OG retinoids while retinol and its derivatives are found in OTC products. An easy hack to remember the difference is that retinoid ends with a D,  so this means that you get them from your Doctor– easy enough, right? History time! Before we jump into how they work, let’s hop aboard our time machine for a little history lesson on this Queen of an ingredient. Since the 1940s, retinoids have been used both topically and orally for a variety of skin conditions, but primarily for acne due to their ability to prevent blemishes. It wasn’t until the 1980s that we discovered retinoids’ super power ability to rejuvenate photoaged skin, AKA any damage caused by long-term exposure to the sun and UV rays such as wrinkles or dark spots (So yup, this ingredient has ruled for quite a while– and with good reason.). Doctors noticed that retinoids not only improved their patients’ acne, but also improved skin texture and reversed the signs of photoaging! By the 1990s, retinol was developed and introduced to the rest of the world. Think of retinol as the more accessible and less irritable version of retinoids, as you can get it without visiting the doctor and it isn’t as potent as retinoids are. How do they work on our skin? It’s important to know that the only type of retinoid our skin can process directly are those in the “retinoic acid” form. All other forms of retinoid have to be converted and processed by the skin before they can affect our skin. So, when we’re talking about retinoids (doctor-prescribed), they’ve already been converted into an active retinoid acid form that makes them super potent. Retinol, on the other hand, needs to undergo conversion in order to work. Retinoids work on the cellular level and stimulate skin cell turnover and production of collagen, two processes which naturally slow down as we age. Studies have shown that three months usage of retinoids helped thicken the skin and improved the appearance of fine lines, and six months of usage showed improvement in the skin’s elasticity, texture, hyperpigmentation, and appearance of wrinkles. Source: https://funfunteatime.wordpress.com/2018/12/28/well-aging-tips-1/ Unfortunately, the conversion process for retinols that we’re talking about is basically like an obstacle course, where throughout the process, the more the obstacles the ingredient faces, the less potent it turns out to be and vice versa. Our friend retinol needs to go through two conversions before it can get to the active retinoic acid form. It first needs to be converted into retinaldehyde (Obstacle 1) and then into retinoic acid (Obstacle 2). Studies have shown that retinol can be twenty times less effective than retinoic acid in reversing signs of aging due to this conversion process (but we’ll discuss later why this isn’t such a bad thing). Some skincare products may also contain retinaldehyde, which is more potent than retinol because it only has to go through one conversion obstacle. Other retinol derivatives that have been around for a while are the retinol esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl aspartamate and retinyl proprionate, etc), which are less potent than retinol as they have to go through three conversion obstacles. Some other newcomers to the retinoid family to look out for are the retinoic acid esters (HPR, Granactive retinoid, etc), which don’t need to be converted at all because they’re delivered in their active form as well as cause less skin irritation compared to direct retinoic acid. Because they’re the youngest in the retinoid family, however, studies on these derivatives are quite limited. But we expect to see a lot more of them coming to your skincare products very soon. Side effects of Retinoids As good as retinoids may sound for their effectiveness in rejuvenating the skin, we can’t forget about the unfavorable consequences they may bring. Their side effects are commonly known as “Retinoid Reaction,” which is distinguished by redness, stinging, scaling, pruritus, and purging on the skin. The closer that retinoids are to the retinoid acid form, the higher the chances of these side effects occurring are. We wouldn’t stress too much about this though as these reactions are largely dependent on the concentration, which your doctor would be aware of, and the side effects subside over time. However, due to this occurrence, other retinoid derivatives were basically created to counteract this side effect and decrease the chances of them coming about. So, like we said, it’s not necessarily a bad thing that these derivatives are “less effective” as with regular use, these gentler alternatives may bring you the same end result with less chance of irritation. Who should use retinoids, and when is the RIGHT time to start using them? So, when IS the optimal age to start using retinoids? Do we have any special formula to calculate this, or any studies to refer to? The truth of the matter is that there really is no exact science to answer this. So really, the right time to start using retinoids is when you feel like your skin needs it. Our official advice to you though is that someone in their mid-20s can benefit greatly from starting these ingredients, as this is the age when our collagen production significantly goes downhill, and prevention is MUCH easier than trying to go back in time, no? We recommend starting off with an OTC retinol product, as it is less irritating and can truly benefit your skin when used regularly. However, please note that these ingredients have NO safety records for use by pregnant and breastfeeding women. While some experts say that retinol derivatives at a certain concentration are safe to use, it’s always better to play it safe and avoid use or consult your doctor. Tips for introducing retinoids to your skincare game Apply them at night on clean, dry skin, and don’t forget to go in with your favorite moisturizer afterwards so your skin doesn’t shrivel up. Less is more, and that couldn’t be more true with retinoids. Applying more than suggested won’t amplify retinoids’ potential benefits– it might actually make your skin worse. You don’t want to go overboard expecting a miracle overnight just to wake up to some nasty side effects from retinoid overload (ouch!). Start using products with a lower concentration at a low frequency, slowly familiarizing your skin with the ingredient being in your routine. You can start with using retinoids once a week, to twice a week, to every other night, and so on. Let you and your skin adjust to this ingredient so that you’ll have the time to figure out if your skin is experiencing any side effects or negative reaction with your other skincare products. We hope this has helped you understand retinoids and how to safely incorporate them into your routine!

We see you setting your annual “get into shape” New Year’s resolution 👀. And how do we know that? ...Because we may be a little guilty of setting that same resolution every year, too. We figured since we’re all on the same boat here, before everyone goes to the gym to break a sweat, we wanted to make sure that no one’s going to break out (Ba dum tss 🥁). Let’s start off the new year right by taking care of our bodies AND our skin. Pre-Gym Skincare 1) Remove ANY makeup BEFORE working out. Just think about this for a second. Do you really want to let your sweat and oils mix in with your makeup to create the perfect spawning ground for bacteria and clogged pores to develop? Yeah, we didn’t think so. Save yourself a world of trouble by cleansing your makeup before you break a sweat. If you’re working out right after waking up, skip to step 3. 2) Light Moisturizer Not only is dehydrated skin unhappy skin, but it also can cause an increase in surface lines and dead skin cell build up that can clog your pores. After cleansing your face of makeup or dead skin cells, put your skin at ease with a non-greasy moisturizer that will retain the moisture in your skin. 3) MIST MIST MIST MIST We’re going to be sweating and working our butts off anyways, so there isn’t really a point to an extensive skincare routine. But we can at least make our tight skin feel more comfortable by generously applying mist to our face before our workout. 4) APPLY SPF Working out is how you maintain your body’s health, applying SPF is how you maintain your skin’s health. Those UVA and UVB rays can cause irreparable damage to your skin, whether you’re exercising next to the gym window and especially if you’re spending a good chunk of time out in the sun. So sunscreen is a NON-NEGOTIABLE. Post-Gym Skincare 1) TONER WASH TIME Once you’re done with your workout, there’s no time to waste– the bacteria are coming. Immediately cleanse your skin with a nice toner wash applied to a cotton pad to gently swipe away the excess sebum, sweat, and grime. If you’re not a fan of carrying around liquid products in your gym bag or don’t have access to running water where you exercised (like at the park), carry around cotton pads that are pre-soaked in toner with you. Cleansing wipes are also an option, but we don’t really recommend them as this is essentially just like applying soap to your face and leaving it on. If you will be using these, make sure you rinse off the leftover residue with water. 2) CLEANSE THAT GUNK. Once you’re home, use your favorite mild cleanser to wash the gunk off your skin. Your skin will thank you. 3) MASK IN SHOWER (NOT EVERY DAY) Try a creamy wash-off type of mask ~1-2 times a week in the shower. Yes, IN THE SHOWER. Doing any type of mask in the shower can work wonders for your skin because it can prevent transepidermal water loss, AKA your skin losing its precious hydration. The in-shower mask will retain all of this hydration that your skin would lose otherwise. 4) RESTORE THAT HYDRATION + MOISTURE Your skin has sweat out a lot of salt and water after your workout, so replenish the lost hydration with some, you guessed it, HYDRATING products! Try using a hydrating serum, then lock all the good stuff in for the rest of the day with your favorite moisturizer. 5) Ofc, SPF Need we say anymore about SPF? If you’re going about the rest of your day after your workout, protect your skin because we aren’t kidding– UVA and UVB rays will show your skin no mercy. 6) BODY CARE: Exfoliate + Moisturize Why is it that we neglect the skin of the rest of our body? It may be tougher than the skin on our face, but it still deserves some TLC too. Our tip for you after your shower is to use a gentle exfoliating product to make your body feel super smooth. A lot of our followers have actually told US that they love using the Kale-lalu-yAHA on their body to exfoliate the scaly skin on their legs and feet, and we love that we’re even learning new ways to use our products from you guys <3. Finish off the body routine with a non-sticky moisturizer. Now, you’re ready to work towards those fitness goals while achieving your skincare goals too. And while being in shape is always important, another huge goal we want to achieve as a company is to give back to a cause we believe in. That’s why our resolution for 2019 is to take care of others. We’re super excited to announce that 10% of every order made in January will be donated to Education Bridge’s Girls Education Project. As a company created and run by women, KraveBeauty is really passionate about the Girls Education Project’s mission to empower young females with leadership and education, and we hope that you can give a helping hand. Read more about the project and how your contributions can help: https://kravebeauty.com/pages/education-for-the-world. 2019 is going to be great, let’s do this.

“Raise your hand if you’ve ever felt personally victimized by hyperpigmentation or dull skin.” Me: ✋af We’re back with another ingredient breakdown to talk skin brightening, because who doesn’t want a brighter and fresher complexion? If you’re with us, read until the very end to learn about the best ingredients to look out for and tips to follow to achieve skin bright enough to outshine the sun ☀️☀️☀️. Before we get into the ingredients, introductions to some major players in our skin’s complexion are in order.MEET MELANOCYTE Say hello to our friend ‘melanocyte’, the cell responsible for managing the pigmentation in our skin, hair, and basically everything else on our body. Melanocyte’s regular duties include producing our bodies’ ‘melanin’, or the pigment that gives our skin, hair, and eyes their color, and then wrapping the new, baby melanin up in a blanket called 'melanosome' that stores and transports the melanin to where they need to go. So after the baby melanin are born and get nice and cozy inside their melanosome, they’re sent away to our skin cells and finally grow up to become our skin’s pigment. Pretty cool, right? Source: http://www.afriderm.com/skin-care-products/a/eye-cream/ Source: https://bit.ly/2ESy91w WHAT MAKES OUR SKIN TONES DIFFER? So what exactly makes our skin tones lighter or darker than others’? Well primarily it’s genetics, so what your mom and pop gave you is what you get. In darker skin tones, baby melanin are packed super tightly into tiny melanosome blankets and travel further and all over the skin. In lighter skin tones, however, they are wrapped loosely in larger, more spacious melanosome and don’t travel very far or very much at all; which attribute to different amounts of pigment in the skin and thus different skin tones. WHAT CAUSES MELANOCYTE TO PRODUCE MELANIN AT ALL? Now you’re probably wondering– why does melanocyte produce baby melanin at all and what factors contribute to what it produces? So besides from the fact that melanocyte is genetically programmed to produce melanin in your skin, it is also largely influenced by the sun’s UV rays. These rays stimulate melanocyte to produce more baby melanin to do one very important thing: PROTECT our skin from harmful UV ray-induced damage from the sun! On the flip side though, melanocyte is also triggered to product melanin by: (*DUN DUN DUNNN*) inflammation. So if you struggle with acne or or some other skin inflammatory disease, chances are that you regularly deal with the discoloration and marks left behind – and nobody wants that. So for those of you who’ve had a rough time either dealing with the aftermath of skin inflammation or a dull skin complexion, stay tuned. Here are the skincare ingredients that can help you control melanocyte’s baby melanin production (think of it as birth control, if you will 😉). INGREDIENTS AND TIPS FOR BRIGHTENING Ingredients you want to look for are: Hydroquinone Kojic acid Vitamin C Vitamin E (A powerful classic duo with Vitamin C) Azelaic Acid Arbutin Niacinamide Licorice Extract And many more! All these ingredients work mainly to inhibit the 'tyrosinase enzyme' that’s responsible for the birth of baby melanin. With them on your side, you can finally gain some control of your skin! Another step you can take to brighten your skin complexion is to help accelerate the skin regeneration process with regular exfoliation. Using AHA or retinol products are awesome for this, as they work by smoothing off the “discolored” skin cells (aka hyperpigmentation) on the surface and replacing them with a new skin cells. Begone old skin cells! And REMEMBER that this is NOT an overnight kind of thing, so be patient with whatever product you’re using to see results! Persistence and patience are key, and slowly but surely, good things will come *pinky promise*. Last but certainly not least, we’ve got one more step for you: ALWAYS PUT ON YOUR SUNSCREEN! Because no matter what your skin type, color, or condition is, your skin is always in need of UV protection. This is especially important for achieving and maintaining bright skin as sunscreen acts to shield your skin and prevent UV-rays from provoking melanocyte into producing more melanin. Since when did applying sunscreen not help our skin, right? We hope you enjoyed this rundown about how the pigment in our skin works (who to remember: melanocyte, baby melanin and blanket melanosome) and that you have the tools you need to achieve the complexion you’ve been looking for. And please, please, PLEASE remember to embrace the skin you have and give it the TLC it needs, because you are so worth it 💖.

We were going to write up a post about Vitamin C but we couldn’t have written it better than our friends from INCI Decoder. So please, enjoy!  If Vitamin C was a person, it would definitely be the Ariana Grande, Jennifer Lopez or Mariah Carey of the vitamin world. An A-list superstar who gives a killer performance, but at the same time exhibits some major diva-like behavior. So what makes Vitamin C the superstar diva it is? Let’s find out.   A little back story  Before we dive into what Vitamin C exactly is, it’s time for a quick history lesson on how it found its big break. By the 18th century, sailors noticed that eating plenty of citrus fruits while out at sea helped prevent scurvy (an ugly disease that causes bleeding gums and other nasty symptoms caused by Vitamin C deficiency). At that time, they had no clue what it was inside citrus fruits that helped, and it took until the 1930s for scientists to pinpoint Vitamin C as the hero. Since then, Vitamin C’s been a much researched and beloved vitamin that has turned out to have tremendous health benefits not only for our body but also for our skin. Specifically, it’s the primary water-soluble antioxidant in our tissue and plays a big role in helping our skin create new skin-firming collagen. But this A-lister isn’t just going to show up without some love calls, because our bodies actually can’t produce Vitamin C for itself (fun fact: some animals, like mice can though!). So we’re going to need to put in the work by getting it entirely from outside sources. While consuming Vitamin C-rich foods such as citrus fruits, black currants, red pepper, and guava can do the trick for providing the vitamin for our bodies, just eating Vitamin C doesn’t increase our skin’s Vitamin C levels much at all. And just when we thought it couldn’t get any more complicated, our skin’s Vitamin C levels are easily depleted when we face sun exposure or environmental pollution. What the heck, right. At least there’s the light at the end of the tunnel: applying Vitamin C cream or serum to our skin does work. (Phew, thank goodness 😌) Here are some of its star skincare qualities: Great antioxidant and UV protection boosterMultiple studies have shown that animal skin treated with topical Vitamin C, also called ascorbic acid, have less skin reddening (AKA erythema), fewer sunburn cells, and decreased tumor formation after UV exposure.What this means for us is that it’s a great idea to use your Vitamin C serum in the morning under your sunscreen (not instead of it!).  For even better protection, choose a serum that also contains Vitamin E to double the photo-protection properties of Vitamin C. And if you’re really looking to pack a Vitamin C punch to your routine, look for serums that also contain Ferulic Acid as it doubles the photo-protection of the Vitamin C + E duo.So here’s the math laid out:Vitamin C = AwesomeVitamin C + E = 2x the AwesomeVitamin C + E + Ferulic Acid = 2x(2x the Awesome)= 4x the Awesome (!!!)Boy, is the Vitamin C + E + Ferulic acid trio super effective or what. If you’re into protecting your skin from UV rays (and you should be if you want lovely skin for the long term), definitely try a serum containing the magic trio. Helps skin produce collagenCollagen is kinda complicated to understand, but the most important thing to know about it is that it’s like a tent pole that helps to keep our skin firm and wrinkle-free. Now, randomly throwing poles onto a ramshackle tent obviously isn’t going to help, and the poles won't magically go to the right place to make our tent nice and firm like we want it to be. It’s the same with collagen– just slathering on skincare products containing collagen doesn’t really help (to be fair, they have some hydrating properties, but not magic wrinkle-erasing properties).That’s why we need to take an alternative approach to prevent further signs of skin aging– by boosting the collagen production of our skin. And what do you know, Vitamin C can help us out with that! In a study from 1999, a 10% Vitamin C serum (called Cellex-C) was shown to decrease the appearance of wrinkles when applied for a three month period. Another study a few years later using a 5% Vitamin C cream for a six month period showed statistically significant improvement in skin hydration, wrinkles, glare, brown spots and skin density. If that wasn’t convincing enough, Vitamin C is one of the very very few ingredients that is proven in peer reviewed studies to boost our skin’s collagen production process.We love an effective collagen-producing queen 👑. Fades brown spotsLet’s be honest– brown spots and hyperpigmentation totally suck, and they’re pretty difficult to fade with just skincare. Fortunately, Vitamin C is good for those stubborn spots too.For brown spots to form, the body needs an enzyme (stuff that facilitates chemical reactions in our body) called tyrosinase. Vitamin C stops tyrosinase in its tracks so that brown spots cannot form that effectively in the first place. Our hero ❤️. Now all we’ve done so far has been to rave about Vitamin C’s superstar performance, but we also mentioned how much of a diva Vitamin C can actually be too. Here’s the gossip on some of its major diva demands: Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easilyIf you’ve ever tried using a pure Vitamin C serum and didn’t finish it up within in a month or two, then you must have noticed a brownish color change in the formula. That, my friend, is Vitamin C oxidizing in the product and thus losing its effectiveness.There are some tips and tricks that skincare developers take to help stabilize Vitamin C in their products. Products with a low pH (below 3.5pH) or waterless formulation tend to last longer. Also, adding in some other ingredients like Ferulic Acid, Glutathione, Citric Acid or Sodium Metabisulfite can help to fend off Vitamin C’s tantrums too. It’s also super important to protect the formula from air and light to prevent further oxidization, so totally airless packaging is the best when it comes to Vitamin C formulas.But even when all of this extra attention and pampering is given, a potent Vitamin C serum still can be used usually only three months after opening them. Diva, see? Does not penetrate skin easilyAs our skin tends to be more attracted to oil-soluble things, our skin just isn’t that into the water-soluble Vitamin C. So this makes it a little tricky for Vitamin C to actually get absorbed into our skin. But good news: low pH (below 3.5pH) solves this problem, so look out for water-based Vitamin C serums that boast the right pH or other waterless formulas. High amount of Vitamin C can irritate sensitive skinFeeling a slight tingling sensation when using Vitamin C is pretty normal, but if your skin is super sensitive or rosacea-prone, a very potent (above 10%) Vitamin C serum might not be a good match for your skin. Still, Vitamin C is such an awesome ingredient that we recommend you at least give a product with a lower amount of Vitamin C a try and see how your skin reacts. Everyone’s skin reacts differently to different ingredients, so who knows? Vitamin C could be the one your skin was waiting for. We hope you enjoyed getting to know more about the antics of our resident superstar diva, Vitamin C. Though a bit difficult at times, we have to admit that it’s amazing at what it does. Tune in next week for another exciting installment in our Ingredient Series: Skin Brightening Ingredients!    

Let’s talk about chemical acid exfoliators. It sounds a little scary and kinda makes you wonder: Is applying chemicals on my skin even safe? Won’t ‘acid’ anything burn off my skin? But are these products really as daunting as they sound? Not at all. AHAs and BHAs can be great allies to our skin when used smartly. Not only can they smoothen the skin, but they can also help fade pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores and fine lines, and even help fight acne (Um, yessss please). To top it all off, they’re often gentler to use on the skin than physical scrubs are and with regulated use cause less damage to your skin barrier. BUT HOW DOES ANY OF THAT ACTUALLY WORK? Our skin has its own natural cell turnover cycle where we shed dead skin cells and produce new ones on the daily. Over time, this shedding process slows down due to biological or external factors, causing undesired skin consequences such as clogged pores, acne, dull skin, hyperpigmentation, as well as, skincare products not absorbing properly. Chemical exfoliators help to speed up our skin’s natural process of shedding dead skin cells and revealing fresh and healthy skin. Regular use of chemical exfoliators has been linked to smoothing out and brightening the skin’s complexion, as well as, reducing the appearance of acne and fading skin hyperpigmentation. So cool, right? SO WHAT ARE SOME KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN AHAs AND BHAs? AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) is a water-soluble exfoliant that mainly works on the surface of the skin. Some AHAs specialize in hydrating and enhancing our skin’s natural moisturizing factors– meaning MORE hydration for us! They work by chemically ungluing the bonds between dead skin cells so that the old dead skin cells can gently leave your skin. Overall, AHAs are particularly great for reducing signs of sun damage, evening out skin tone, and exfoliating for most skin concerns. If you’re also in need of some ‘glow’, AHAs can definitely help! BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), on the other hand, is oil-soluble, meaning that it’s able to penetrate deep into your skin. (*Side note: Many people think that our skin absorbs watery ingredients better, but that is far from the truth. Oil based– AKA lipophilic– ingredients are actually able to go much deeper!) BHA works both on the surface of the skin AND inside the pores, dissolving all of the nasty gunk that accumulates there and making it a great ingredient for people with acne-prone and oily skin. In addition, BHAs can not only treat acne and reduce the appearance of large pores, but they also have anti-inflammatory properties that help manage P.acne bacteria in our skin. So let’s dive a little deeper into some common AHA and BHA agents and give you a general rundown of what makes each one so special. COMMON AHAs Glycolic Acid, like our Kale-Lalu-yAHA Who’s it for? People with dull skin What’s so special about it? Due to its tiny molecule size, glycolic acid is able to retexturize the skin with a smaller concentration than other acids, making it the most effective AHA of all on the list. Fun Fact: The Glycolic Peel was one of the first superficial chemical peels to become popular because of its effectiveness and ease of use. They were popularly known as “the lunchtime peel” because they could be completed during the lunch hour by a dermatologist/esthetician, and the patient could return to work without any telltale signs. Lactic Acid Who’s it for? People with drier skin What’s so special about it? Lactic acid is the rare acid that both moisturizes and exfoliates. It’s a milder version of glycolic acid that’s great for smoothing the skin. Fun Fact: It’s rumored that Cleopatra used to take sour milk baths to maintain that Egyptian glow. And guess what’s derived from sour milk? Lactic acid. Mandelic Acid Who’s it for? People with darker skin tones What’s so special about it? Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure, so it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as glycolic acid does and ends up being less irritating to the skin. That’s why it’s frequently used instead of glycolic acid in skincare products and is often recommended for people with darker skin who are more prone to hyperpigmentation. Fun facts: Mandelic Acid is the most gentle AHA of all and therefore is safe to use for pretty much everyone. COMMON BHAs Salicylic Acid Who’s it for? People with oily, acne-prone skin What’s so special about it? Salicylic Acid penetrates deeper into the skin than any other AHA does. It can unclog pores and reduce the appearance of acne and hyperpigmentation. Some even report that it helps to reduce oil production due to the fact that BHAs are oil-soluble! Fun facts: Salicylic acid is often used in shampoos to treat dandruff. Now, acids aren’t so scary after all, are they? As always, we remind you to take the time to listen to what your skin is craving, and if what you just learned chemical exfoliators seems to fit the bill, definitely give them a try!